The progress of lipolysis and its effect on flavour development during cheese ripening is reviewed. The review begins by describing the structure and composition of milk fat and thereafter discusses current knowledge regarding the role of various lipolytic agents and their influence on lipolysis in various cheese varieties. While free fatty acids (FFA) liberated during lipolysis directly affect cheese flavour, they are also metabolized to other highly flavoured compounds, including methyl ketones and lactones. The pathways of FFA catabolism and the effect of these catabolic products on cheese flavour are discussed. Finally, the current methods for the quantification of FFA in cheese are reviewed and compared. (C) 2003 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.